Update: closed 8/27/09. But the owner is shopping for a new location. There are just a few places worth trekking through a 98-degree haze for. Lassi, a closet-sized West Village takeout shop, is worth checking out if only for its signature beverage. Lassi (the drink) is a cold silky mix of yogurt, water, and salt, in flavors ranging from mango to cardamom ($5 for large). It’s deliciously rich even as the tartness makes your eyes squinch. But don’t miss the parathas as well–hearty naan griddled and folded crepe-style over delicately-spiced fillings of your choice–potato, daikon, cauliflower, or cheese; and served with boondi raita, a chilled, mint-flavored dipping sauce flecked with little doughy balls ($4-$5). The entrees, including shahi chicken with pistachio, almonds and cashews ($14.75) and vegan Shakkar-Kandi Saag (sweet potatoes in spinach - 12.95) are uniformly excellent. The challenge: try not to suck down your lassi before the food arrives.

Lassi, 28 Greenwich Ave. at 6th Ave.