I’ve been ogling blow-ups of Dunkin’ Donuts new waffle breakfast sandwich since they started appearing around town, even though I was certain it was bound to be a let-down. I’m not knocking Dunkin’ out of sheer snack snobbery. After-school sojourns to the drive-thru for creamy-sweet coffees are what got me hooked on caffeine back in high school. But the donuts and breakfast sandwiches always had a slightly stale taste, like dashed expectations thrown in a microwave. This morning though, on day eleven of the cold from hell, my resistance crumbled and I found myself standing in a Dunkin Donuts, ordering a #8 combo–a waffle sandwich with medium coffee ($3.99).

The 410-calorie count made sense as I tore the paper away, revealing a sandwich no bigger than my palm, flattened between two slightly-soggy waffles. On the plus side, the waffles were subtly sweetened with maple, the bacon was actually crispy on the edges, the eggs were not nearly as rubbery as I’ve had in many a fast-food breakfast sandwich, and the American cheese was–well, orange and inoffensive. By the time I was finished I felt a surprisingly satisfied. I have to admit, in a pinch or far from Manhattan, I’d order this again.

Seriouseats.com does a side-by-side comparison of the Dunkin’ waffle sandwich and the McGriddle.

Dunkin Donuts 166 2nd Ave - open 24 hours