Mayahuel feels like a tequila sanctuary that’s stationed halfway between glitzy LA and old Mexico–quite a trick, considering it’s entrance is affixed to East Village’s Indian Row. While dodging hosts hawking $8.95 curry specials, you’ll spot a squat, corrugated roof jutting out above a heavy, monastery door that’s slammed shut against your peeping eyes. Only the sound of a cocktail shaker escapes from the high, barred windows. Inside, cell-like booths encased in more bars and old brick, chintzy chandeliers, a harem-red lounge under cathedral lights upstairs, and our lady of Guadelupe in the basement, add up to a church-dungeon whorehouse ringed in spanish tile. If it sounds tacky, wait. After a few drinks it seems completely natural.

Like at Death & Company, owner Philip Ward’s other venture, the best seats are at the bar. The bartenders, now within badgering range, helped my alleviate my lifelong ignorance of tequila and mescal while making mixology magic. I also left with a new favorite cocktail. The whoopsy daisy ($13) uses blanco tequila, joven mezcal, pomegranate molasses and lime in proportions both potent and delicious. The watermelon sugar ($12), another tequila-mescal concoction, tasted like a refreshing spiked punch, with a cayenne and salt rim that added a peppery zing (recipe on Gothamist). The michelada ($9), a beer cocktail with spicy sangrita, a mixer of tomato, orange, and chilies, impressed me somewhat less, but añejo ($18), aged tequila served neat, was smooth and smokey, reminiscent of scotch.

There’s a menu featuring snacky tapas things like tacos and plantains but since the tab was creeping up towards $30 apiece after two drinks, it was soon time to flee in search of a cheaper harbors. I suppose if you’re going to serve $13 cocktails in the teeth of a recession they’d better be friggin special, and I felt the ones as Mayahuel were. Fortunately, there’s plenty of inexpensive Indian grub down the block when you run out of money.

Mayahuel
304 East 6th Street between First and Second Avenue
Daily 6pm-2am