The words “Asian Chipotle” floated through my mind the first time I entered Rickshaw Dumpling Bar–and not just because it’s next door to one. There’s a sleek, spotless look to both haute fast food places, like they’re gunning for an Apple Store crowd that’s “evolved” past (but never forgotten) McNuggetville. Actually in concept, Rickshaw reminds me a little of “Top Chef” judge Tom Colicchio’s sandwich bar ‘wichcraft in that a celebrity chef (in this case “Iron Chef” Anita Lo) is venturing into for-the-masses terrain by elevating one lowly food item with fresh ingredients and a cool soundtrack.

Rickshaw’s perplexingly laid-out menu touts six varieties of dumplings, steamed or fried, paired with one of six dipping sauces ($5.55/6 pieces $7.77/9 pieces). For $3.33 extra you can add one of six salads or soups. On my first trip I was, admittedly, a little let down. The classic pork-and-chive dumplings were fine, but unmemorable in their bland soy sauce, and the steamed mustard green and tofu dumplings tasted like a ball of wet salad in a flaccid wrapper, with a strangely buttery herb sauce. But then, an unexpected twist–I kept getting dumpling urges, and I kept going back to Rickshaw. Maybe it was the severely undercooked chicken dumplings I had at old standby Dumpling Man, or maybe, as my workdays grew longer, going to Chinatown for dumplings seemed like too much of a pain in the ass. Sure, in Chinatown you can get six delicious dumplings for a dollar. But, in my experience, you’ll very likely stand in a long, steamy line, gazing at the occasional cockroach, while the counter-people do their damnedest not to notice you; unless you’re Chinese and your presence is not an issue.

Anyway, convenience and freshness can sometimes help my tastes fall into line, and I’m enjoying Rickshaw’s dumplings more the third and fourth times around–especially the fried Thai chicken dumplings with peanut dipping sauce and a serviceably large and fresh green side salad. True, this does set me back almost $10, but if my time is money, I probably just saved some by not venturing downtown. I plan to try the Peking duck dumplings next.

The real surprise was how much I liked the chocolate dumplings ($1.50/each). Although they sound like a tooth-achingly bad idea, these round balls of chewey rice dough, crusted in sesame seeds and filled with warm molten Callebut chocolate weren’t too sweet, and were definitely creamy and delicious. Be sure to diffuse the squirtyness by poking a hole in them, or use the Rickshaw-supplied chocolate dumpling bib.

Rickshaw Dumpling Bar, 53 East 8th Street between Greene and Mercer Mon-Sat 11:30-10pm Sun 11:30-9:30pm
Also in Chelsea: 61 West 23rd St between 5th and 6th Avenue Mon-Sat 11:30-9:30pm Sun 11:30-8:30pm