Hummus, when it’s done well, can be a cheap and filling meal in itself, a fact I only came to appreciate in recent years. For a long time the word hummus conjured memories of bleak vegetarian bagged lunches consumed by a high school friend. I remember one time peering into her family’s refrigerator looking for a snack. The health-conscious deprivation within was truly unsettling–a bag of dried-up baby carrots, a bowl of inedible pods, a neglected quart of bluish skim milk. The tub of hummus seemed the most promising option, but the contents were disappointingly gritty and bland on my tongue. It was a relief to escape and curl up at home with a box of Cookie Crisp, scraping the top of my mouth against the cereal’s sugary crunch.

Despite these depressing reminiscences, I now regularly snack on hummus and I have Hummus Place to thank for it; this is the best that I’ve found in the city. Their simple menu boasts three of four different varieties, but I generally like their smooth, rich hummus heaped with nutty tahini, drizzled with just a bit of olive oil and flecked with parsley and paprika ($5.95). With a hummus-centric meal the accoutrements are key, and are also top-notch; sharp slabs of onion and salty pickles for crunch, peppers and scorching hot sauce for spice, olives, two of the pillowiest pieces of pita you’ll find anywhere, and a tender hard-boiled egg sliced over top (egg is $1.00 extra). The portions are stomach-filling and while the wait times for takeout can be as long as 10 or 15 minutes, it’s usually because the place is packed with what appear to be Israeli ex-patriates (who pronounce it “hoomoos”)–a good sign that you’re getting the real deal. If you’re extra hungry, try the shakshuka–tomato stew with halloumi cheese and two eggs over-easy ($8.95); and the always-refreshing mint lemonade ($2.50).

Hummus Place 108 St. Mark’s Place near Avenue A. Sun-Thu 11am-12am, Fri-Sat 11am-2am