Perhaps the most eagerly-anticipated fruit export in years, boxes of Indian mangoes have started cropping up in a few city delis, after a 20-year ban. Most Americans have only tasted Mexican or Guatemalan mangoes, whose stringy flesh and faint sweetness pales next to the Indian variety, kinda the way that canned fruit cocktail stacks up to fresh produce. The FDA’s concern over pesticides used by Indian farmers halted the mango trade until George W Bush lifted the ban in 2006, as part of larger trade and nuclear cooperation agreements. Currently, only 2 of the 1500 varieties grown in India (which produces 50% of the world’s supply) are allowed in the US, under condition that they be treated with irradiation to eliminate seed weevils: the alphonso and the kesar.

I tried an alphonso, fondly known as the king of fruits, after my snacking associate spotted some in a box at Dual Specialty Store, an Indian deli on First Avenue. The mango’s flesh was firm but more creamy than pulpy, and the outer layers had, in addition to an intense mango taste, notes of floral and spice. Towards the middle the mango turned sweeter, more honey-and-vanilla, dribbling juice that ran down my wrists. Eating mangoes is a messy business, best enjoyed with someone you love.

So of course, it was back to Dual for more mangoes. I picked out two green ones, wrapped in styrofoam nets, hoping that they will ripen to golden yellow. Since they were an exorbitant $3.50 each, I also picked up a more reasonably-priced $1.50 Mexican mango, which was bigger and promisingly shaded vivid red and gold. Compared to the Alphonso it fell flat. There was no complexity, little flavor, and pulpy bits. The man at the counter said they were running low on the alphonsos, but they would be getting some kesars in soon (sure enough, the first sea shipment left Mumbai on June 12 and is due this week). And then, since mango season ends in June, and there are still few importers, there will likely be no more til next year. For now, Patel Brothers in Jackson Heights might be another likely source. Get them while you can, because mango fanatics will be snapping them up.

Dual Specialty Store
91 First Avenue between 5th st. and 6t st.
11am-midnight

For a long time the word hummus conjured memories of bleak vegan bagged lunches consumed by a sugar-deprived high school friend, but as evidenced by Hummus Place, it can actually be a treat when done well. The simple menu boasts three of four different varieties, but I generally like the “hummus tahini”–smooth, rich hummus heaped with nutty tahini, drizzled with olive oil, flecked with parsley and paprika and sliced hard-boiled egg ($6.95). With a hummus-centric meal the accoutrements are key, and here they’re top-notch; sharp slabs of onion and salty pickles for crunch, peppers and scorching hot sauce add spice, and two of the pillowiest pieces of pita you’ll find. The portions are stomach-filling and while the wait times for takeout can be as long as 10 or 15 minutes, it’s usually because the place is packed with Israelis (who pronounce it “hoomoos”)–a good sign that it’s the real deal. If you’re extra hungry, try the shakshuka–tomato stew with halloumi cheese and two eggs over-easy ($8.95); and the always-refreshing mint lemonade ($2.50).

Hummus Place 108 St. Mark’s Place near Avenue A. Sun-Thu 11am-12am, Fri-Sat 11am-2am

A near-constant tummyache sent me to the doctor recently, whose advice was to change my diet, specifically, eliminate meat. “Try it as an experiment,” she said. Doomed to gastric distress or life without sliders, pork buns, and meatloaf, I sought comfort at Madras Cafe. Just around the corner from Indian Row’s hecklers and chintzy glitz, Madras is in a different league–quiet and welcoming with warm rust-colored walls, and a veggie-vegan-kosher-friendly menu that clearly marks dairy content and spice level. You might see one of the rare lone diner species, or even actual Indian people, eating here.

Highlights are the dosas: thin, non-greasy rice crepes wrapped around savory fillings like potato masala, peas and onions, and served with a side of spicy tomato sambar, and a grits-like, tongue-scorching chutney. At $9, it’s pricier than a visit to the Dosa Man in Washington Square, but reasonable for a nicer sit-down place. The samosas ($5) are two crisp vegetable turnovers filled with potato, nuts and spices, perfect for sharing. For a main dish, the Kofta Curry ($10–pictured) arrives as three falafel-like veggie meatballs covered in a buttery tomato sauce. I can’t resist a decent mango lassi, a sweet yogurt drink that doubles as dessert, although I prefer the tartness of Lassi’s. Beware of the lentil donuts, which were leathery and weirdly resisted soaking up their bath of creamy curry sauce.

Will I stay a vegetarian? I doubt it. But I do like experimenting.

Madras Cafe, 79 Second Avenue Mon-Sat noon-11pm, Sun noon-10pm